How to replace trashed track.

Okay, so here’s this week’s post. There’s this curve that I put in at the very beginning that I’ve never been completely satisfied with – There’s a join in the middle that kinked slightly, and eventually went out of gauge. After that, I tried soldering PCB ties to it to keep it in gauge, but it was ugly. Recently, it started getting worse, so I did this!

Firstly, I shaped a new section of flextrack to fit the old curve.

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Next, I used my dremel with metal cutting wheel to precisely cut at the ends of it.

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Then use a chisel to gently…gently…lift…and carefully…destroy the track. You could save track if you want, but this is for replacing damaged track so forget it!

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This is a good time to remove the old feeders. Save them if you’re happy with them, but I put new smaller gauge ones in.

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Once you’ve got the old section lifted, you have a choice of whether to lay track on the old roadbed or not. My roadbed was covered with 2 kinds of caulking as well as wood glue in addition to masking tape for superelevation (banking) so it was going to be very difficult to give it a level and consistent base, so I used my chisel to take up the old cork as well. Sometimes a fresh start is good.

I cut the roadbed with a knife at either end of the section I was replacing, and then chiseled it up, being careful not to damage the rest that I left.

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Once all the cork was up I was left with a bit of gluey residue, I took care of that with sandpaper on a narrow piece of wood until it was smooth.

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Now, the process begins anew! I used wood glue to secure the new cork and cut it at the ends to match the existing sections. After that, the rest was a breeze. Sanded down the ends to make sure that there wouldn’t be any bumps before I added superelevation using this method.

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After that, slathered on a slightly-too-generous helping of caulking and tacked it down to dry.

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And voila! As smooth as I could ask for.